A Sunny Afternoon in Bize

 

The restaurant at St. Jean de Minerve

 

Canal du Midi

 

The Local Market at St.Chinian

 

Narbonne Cathedral

 

Cathar Castle at Lastour

Places of Interest and Local Restaurants.

It would be impossible to list all the places of interest in this incredible region. There is a good deal of information available in the apartments, but for those planning to explore the region in any great depth I would recommend buying a good guidebook; possibly the Michelin Guide or the Traveler’s Mediterranean France by David Burke. Both of these publications will give a greater insight into the area. Below you will find a brief summary of the many places of interest that await you here in the Languedoc. There is no particular order to these places, but hopefully it will give a small insight.

The Surrounding Area.

In the immediate area there are several places of interest. Bize-Minervois is the local town and has a handful of restaurants, also a supermarket and a butcher who will cook almost anything to order, there is also a great swimming pool in the river. Minerve lies to the West and had a fortress in the Middle Ages. One of the most dramatic moments in the war against the Cathars took place here in 1210, when the town witnessed the first great burning of the heretics. The Crusaders condemned more than one hundred and forty souls to the flames. The Oppidum d’Enserune Rises 120 meters above the Beziers plain and has been occupied since the 6th Century BC. Well worth a visit and also worthy of note is the view of the drained lake of Montardy, which can be seen from the oppidum. Minervois, as a region, is famous for its wines and that will become instantly obvious as you tour the area. The wines are generally fruity robust reds of good quality. The exception being the excellent Muscat produced in St. Jean de Minervois.

Carcassonne.

Carcassonne is famous for being the largest medieval fortress in Europe. There are really two towns, the lower town dating from the thirteenth century and the more famous Cite, the upper walled town, which has been occupied since earliest times. Much of what can be seen today is a nineteenth century restoration, but it certainly should not be missed on a trip to this area. From a distance the view cannot fail to impress. If your visit includes the 14th July, they have a wonderful firework display here.  

Narbonne.

A major centre since Roman times Narbonne is a city with much to offer. The cathedral dominates the skyline from a distance; in fact it has the third highest vault of any Gothic cathedral in France. It is well worth a visit, as are the Treasury and the two buildings of the Archbishop’s Palace. The Canal de la Robine offers somewhere to stroll and perhaps have lunch at one of the nearby restaurants. Les Halles de Narbonne is a daily covered market where fresh produce can be purchased if you are planning to dabble in some home cooking. Finally, the archaeological museum is a must. There are excellent displays of artifacts from Narbonne’s history and especially the Roman period, when this city was the capital of Provincia Romana Narbonensis.

Les Montagnes de la Clape and the Beaches.

This is an important wine growing area between Narbonne and the beaches. The scenery is simply stunning and well worth investigating. There are several good vineyards here that are open to the public. Chateau Pech-Celeyran (www.logassist.fr/pech-celeyran) at the northern end and Chateau Pech Redon in the South are worth a visit. There are also some good beaches; Fleury d’Aude is excellent, especially if you want to get away from the crowds. The village of Gruissan with its ochre coloured houses is a perfect spot to have a long lunch. Seafood, as you may expect, is very good here.

The African Reserve at Sigean.

The African Reserve at Sigean lies about 15 kms to the south of Narbonne. It is a huge 300-hectare park with over 150 species of lions, rhinos, giraffes, elephants and many more, all within an African setting. It is open all year and is a great day out for the family.

Corbieres.

This important region stretches south from Narbonne. Its sun drenched limestone hills have a beauty that is quite incredible. The area is littered with the remains of numerous monastic institutions and chateaux. Probably their best-known features after the robust reds of the region are the ruined Cathar castles. This is the land of the Cathars and they will never be far from you as you tour the area. Peyrepertuse, Queribus, Termines and a little further a field, Montsegur, are all within an easy distance by car and will truly reward the effort made in visiting them. On the subject of robust reds, a trip to Chateau de Lastours in Portel-des-Corbieres is a great education; it is one of the most highly rated vineyards in the area. (www.epicuria.fr/chateau-lastours )

Beziers and the Surrounding Region.

Beziers is only 30 minutes away to the East. It should appear on any holiday itinerary. The cathedral of St. Nazaire dominates the plain as you approach the town, which is the centre of wine production in Herault. It has a great atmosphere and plenty of good restaurants to choose from. The Allees Paul Riquet somewhat resembles Las Ramblas in Barcelona giving a Spanish feel to the centre of town, each Friday there is a flower market here. In fact if you are visiting around 15th August, the town has a five day party known as the féria when there are bull fights, open air concerts and bars on every street corner; not for the faint hearted! In the surrounding area the pre-Roman settlement at the Oppidum d’Enserune (mentioned above) should not be missed. The Canal du Midi, whose creator was born in Beziers, stretches from Sete to Bordeaux, but here you can observe the spectacular Neuf Ecluses de Fonseranes and the aqueduct carrying the canal over the River Orbe.

Recommended Restaurants

It is always difficult to recommend a good restaurant because of changing staff and differing tastes. However I am prepared to stick my neck out for a few local eateries that I hope you will enjoy. L’Appaloosa in Bize is an excellent place to eat with a friendly atmosphere. The service is friendly, the portions are large and of great value, and it is very popular. The Auberge de l’Ecole in St Jean de Minervois provides homely food and the chef speaks some English; booking is always advised. Be sure to have a glass of Muscat. If you are looking for something a little more chic and a meal to remember, then try my favourite, L’Olivier at the Chateau de Cabezac. Bon appetit!

And finally…

There are many more places to see and it would truly be impossible to list them all here. The towns of Pezenas and Montpellier are not to far away. The coastal towns of Sete and Le Cap D’Agde offer another day out. Spain is not much more than an hour away and can easily be journeyed in a day. The Cote Vermeille with Perpignan and the picturesque port of Collioure offer alternatives. In fact a week or two may not be enough, and you will find yourself drawn back year after year. You may even feel the need to move here, it's happened before.

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